Qalhat A Sign Of Past Splendour                              

Since ancient times the geographical position of Oman has encouraged strong trade links with East Africa, the Subcontinent and Asia, and the remains of the old city of Qalhat are a sign of its past splendour and prosperity. Along with other places, such Khor Rori and Ras Al Hadd, Qalhat was important in the seafaring history of Sultanate of Oman.

The mausoleum of Bibi Maryam stands on a desolated plateau among the remains of old Qalhat, together with the ancient city walls, a cistern and some tombs, all reflecting its former magnificence. The old city is adjacent to the modern village, which is located adjacent to Wadi Hilm approximately twenty-five kilometres north-west of Sur. The remains of the old city cover a vast area which, when excavated, will give archaeologists a chance to learn more about the richness and grandeur of Oman’s history.

The arrival of the Portuguese fleet under the command of Alfonso D’Albuquerque signalled the end of the long history of the Qalhat. Plinius, the Roman author, writing in the 8th century AD described Qalhat, as did Marco Polo and Ibn Battuta in accounts of their travels. However, it is not clear whether Marco Polo actually visited the site, in about 1300 AD, whereas Ibn Battuta arrived in about 1330 AD and described the city in detail. He wrote eloquently of Qalhat having beautiful architecture, and the ruins of the mausoleum of Bibi Maryam remain as evidence of this architectural creativity and of the high standards and refined quality of its craftsmanship and art, equal, if not superior, to the contemporary technology of that era used elsewhere in the Middle Eastern region where the powerful Murghal dynasty had introduced new artistic concepts from Iran, India and Central Asia.

When the Portuguese arrived in Qalhat in 1507 AD they attempted to establish friendly relations with the local ruler, but because of the relationship between Qalhat and Persia they destroyed the city to avoid it being used as a base by the Persians to fight them. In his writings Ibn Battuta indicated that the city was well fortified, and this is supported by Alfonso D’Albuquerque’s accounts in which similar descriptions confirm the strategic position of Qalhat and its defence by well-equipped armed men.

The destruction of Qalhat was cruel and thorough with the Portuguese destroying and burning everything with the exception of the mausoleum of Bibi Maryam. This may have been because, as Christians, the name was sacred to them.

The mausoleum of Bibi Maryam stands among a dormant landscape of ruins as a solid form comprising a square plan. The mausoleum may have been built by the ruler of Qalhat for his wife in around 1311 AD. Today this significant structure stands as a sentinel on a silent and peaceful plateau as a ruin in what was once a vital region full of great activity and life. When standing beside the mausoleum one cannot help but visualize the splendour of that era. People busy performing their activities start to appear in front of the mind’s eye, with merchants, fine horses, traders and carts full of merchandise being transported from one place to another. The sheltered bay would also have been a beautiful sight with dhows, ships and boats afloat in the sea. One’s imagination soars visualizing the approach of prayer times, with passers-by and locals entering Bibi Maryam for the peace of the soul, performing salat or just paying their solitary respects to the lady who rested in the beautiful and mystic structure which had two purposes: that of a mosque as well as that of the mausoleum.

Even today, after the passing of hundreds of years, the mausoleum of Bibi Maryam retains its status as a remarkable piece of architecture which employed the most refined techniques of its era. For many people it is still a spiritual place, underlining the strong moral and ethical values that became its basis, built to respect and honour Bibi Maryam.

The mausoleum of Bibi Maryam was built on a raised platform of coral and stone bonded together and embedded in mortar, and with the original coatings of plaster still evident in the greater part of the structure. There is a crypt below the floor and the building was topped by a pointed dome, which has now mostly collapsed. Part of the drum and the few areas of the dome that remain give guidance in identifying the shape and design. The four facades are decorated with niches and blind arches, reflecting the style adopted in Iran and India. The use of pointed polylobed arches was typical of the Mughal style of architecture, while the inner corner wall with its squinches and mihrab were ornamented with a motif of muquarnas. The interior would originally have been decorated with glazed tiles (Kashi Kari), the remains of which can be seen as vague design motifs but nevertheless giving a clear indication of the skills and talents of the craftsmen and artisans of the time.

Influences of different styles can be seen, suggesting an aim towards maturity in architecture. On one hand this blend is an indication that the people of the region understood the value of growth and were open minded to advancement, which ultimately took them on a road to progress that is noticeable through the brilliantly integrated features of the standing mausoleum. On the other hand there is a blend of art testifying that Qalhat was a trading centre linked to the central region of Asia and India, territories thousands of kilometres distant, and such cosmopolitan maritime activity of the Omani population continues to the present time.

No doubt the magnificent Bibi Maryam mausoleum witnessed and savoured valuable prints of past eras and encompassed many tales of the important history of the Sultanate of Oman, told through the ages and handed down from one generation to another, to carry on the rich heritage of the country with pride.